Chemicals play an integral role in every stage of textile and leather production, from the preparation of raw fibres to dyeing, finishing and coating processes. Certain chemicals may pose risks to workers, the environment and consumers if proper Chemical Management System measures are not effectively implemented.
The Environmental Protection Agency developed 12 principles which demonstrate the concept of Green Chemistry. This framework aims to mitigate risk factors by rethinking entire chemical management processes: using fewer hazardous substances, generating less waste and designing chemical products that are safer at every stage of their lifecycle.
We talked to two experts at Hohenstein Laboratories: John Murphy, Technical Director Europe and Szilard Szarvas, Technical Senior Director, who shared the most significant developments which are already being adopted and are worth monitoring.
In this article, we look at current Green Chemistry innovations, the regulatory landscape for chemicals and at how OEKO-TEX® supports Green Chemistry and controls the use of chemicals.
Innovations worth watching
Innovations in textile and leather chemistry aim to create lower impact, produce fewer residues and reduce the use of resources needed for production. Several developments already being adopted at commercial scale.
Fluorine-free finishes
One of the most significant shifts in recent years has been the move away from PFAS-based water- and stain-repellent finishes, also accelerated by regulatory pressure on PFAS across multiple markets. Fluorine-free alternatives are now commercially available and increasingly adopted, demonstrating that high-performance repellence is achievable without fluorinated chemistry.
Enzyme-driven and bio-based chemistry
Enzyme-based pretreatments, such as scouring (cleaning fabrics from natural impurities such as waxes, fats, pectins and dirt) bleaching and finishing operate at lower temperatures, reduce water and energy consumption. They also leave fewer residues in wastewater. Bio-based softeners and other plant-derived or biotech-sourced ingredients are replacing petrochemical alternatives, making the processes more environmentally friendly.
Digital printing and AI-optimised dye formulation
Digital textile printing, combined with new reactive and low-impact dyes, is significantly reducing water consumption and chemical waste in patterned fabric production. Reactive dyes bind to the fibre through a chemical reaction, which is usually more efficient than the normal dying process and therefore less rinsing is required. Low impact dyes have higher absorption rates. More dye binds to the fabric which in turn means less water used. Producers are also using AI to optimise dye formulations and process parameters. It results in less dye, fewer auxiliary chemicals and consistently high colour fastness.
Chemical recycling of textile blends
New chemical recycling methods are being developed to break mixed-fibre blends such as cotton-polyester back down into high-quality fibre while also removing dyes. This could turn a significant category of post-consumer textile waste into clean feedstocks for new yarns.
The current chemical regulatory landscape
More chemicals are being scrutinised and requirements are becoming stricter. Below are the most important regulatory developments that OEKO-TEX ® and its testing institutes are monitoring.
PFAS restrictions
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is finalising its scientific evaluation of a comprehensive EU-wide PFAS restriction (REACH Regulation (EC) No. 1907/2006) expected to be adopted in 2027. France has already moved ahead with national legislation banning PFAS in clothing textiles and footwear from January 2026 and Denmark has introduced similar measures.
EU Chemicals Strategy for Sustainability (CSS)
The CSS is the European Commission's overarching roadmap for making chemicals safer and more sustainable. It drives many of the specific regulatory initiatives affecting our industry. Understanding it helps to anticipate where specific chemical restrictions are heading.
Bisphenols
In the United States, Bisphenol A (BPA) is attracting increasing regulatory attention, particularly in relation to food-contact materials and consumer goods. For manufacturers supplying the US market, it is worth monitoring how BPA restrictions develop across states and federally. Next to United States, there’s also an increased focus in the European Union on other bisphenols such as Bisphenol AF, B, F and S (Commission Regulation (EU) 2026/250)
Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)
The ESPR entered into force in 2024 and places textiles among its first priority product groups. It sets mandatory requirements focused on improving product durability, reusability, reparability and recyclability. One of its most significant practical implications is the Digital Product Passport (DPP): a requirement that information about a product, including the chemicals used in its production, must be traceable and accessible throughout its lifecycle. Ecodesign requirements for textiles and apparel are expected to be adopted between 2027-2030.
Chemicals: market outlook
The chemicals in textiles and leather industry are moving from a model of identifying and restricting the most harmful substances towards a more proactive approach of chemical stewardship. The starting point is designing processes and products that are inherently safer.
The collaboration with ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) MRSL framework is important, particularly in chemical conformance. ZDHC is preparing to launch three new initiatives until the end of 2026: the Progressive and Aspirational levels of its chemical conformance programme, building on the existing Foundational level and a new Formulator to Zero (FtZ) initiative. They will raise the bar for what chemical suppliers need to demonstrate in order to meet the requirements of brands that have adopted the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero.
How OEKO-TEX® supports Green Chemistry and responsible chemical management
All OEKO-TEX® limit values for harmful substances are reviewed continuously and updated at least once a year and comply with the latest science, international requirements and regulations.
Our certifications focus on different areas of chemicals use: chemicals in products to provide safe articles for consumers, chemicals with potential environmental impact and chemicals in production that may affect workers health & safety.
10 years ago, in 2016 OEKO-TEX® recognised the need for a more responsible approach to chemicals used in the textile and leather industry which led to the creation of the OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT certification for chemicals, colourants and auxiliaries. Certified chemicals are tested and evaluated by independent experts against strict criteria for hazardous impurities on the final product and environmental emissions.
Currently, over 65,000 ECO PASSPORT certified chemicals are in use in the industry. ECO PASSPORT certification also aligns with ZDHC MRSL, which means certified products can be listed on the ZDHC Gateway.
OEKO-TEX® STeP, the certification for production facilities, supports chemical management directly through its dedicated chemical management module which verifies that a facility has the systems in place to manage chemicals responsibly: from procurement and storage to application, waste handling and disposal. OEKO-TEX® STeP is recognized by ZDHC as an approved certification for the Supplier to Zero program.
Also OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, the certification for product safety makes sure that every component of a certified product has been tested for a list of over 1,000 harmful substances. STANDARD 100 criteria is compliant with the ECHA SVHC Candidate List, REACH and CPSIA. It is also recognised by the American Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) as proof of compliance with the limit values for the total content of lead in products for children.
Want to learn more about Green Chemistry? Discover our related expert interviews, insights and podcast episode:
A Relationship with Chemistry - Interview with Dr Julian Koschmieder
How chemistry in the textile industry can become truly greener - Interview with Dr Jean Pierre Haug
