Basic Thoughts on Ecology

The International Oeko-Tex Association has based its principles of developing the Oeko-Tex standard 100 on the following baisc concepts:

"Ecology" as a concept in the field of textiles can often be over generalised, leading to misunderstandings of its actual meaning. For example, a "Natural Textile" may be assumed to be environmentally friendly by definition just because it has been produced without bleaching and dyed with natural dyes. But in general the aim is predominantly to ensure the human safety aspects of the clothing without compromising fashin and function.

Ecology can be explained in clearer terms if it is divided into three specific areas, as outlined below:

Production Ecology

This covers all of the stages of manufacture, from fibre production to the make-up of the finished article. The production processes should be environmentally sound, fulfilling suitable criteria such as air quality, effluent waste and noise generation.

Human Ecology

This deals with the influence of textiles in their next "environment", i.e., the consumer or end user of the products and addresses the screening of such products for any toxic substances that could potentially cause harm to the consumer.

Disposal Ecology

This is concerned with the disposal of a product once it has completed its useful working life-span , addressing suitable recycling methods as well as the natural biodegradability of the product.

The modern consumer is increasingly concerned about ecological issues, with human ecology having the highest priority. Therefore, if a textile product is to be promoted as having an ecological advantage, it is the human ecology aspect, which must be addressed first. Additionally, the criteria used for testing must be meaningful to reassure the consumer across a number of international markets - the Oeko-Tex 100 standard meets this requirement.

For production ecology it is extremely difficult to screen the final product because of the complicated, and often global, multi-component supply chain often involved in the overall production process. .

For disposal ecology the tracking is even more complex, not least because of the unresolved debate concerning certain disposal techniques such as incineration or the substances not allowed in biodegradable materials used in the industry.

In comparison to Production and Disposal Ecology, Human Ecology can be tested and controlled more easily. Oeko-Tex 100 aims to therefore address this topic and reassure the consumer.

Addressing Production and Disposal Ecology?

The International Association for Research and Testing, whilst working within the field of Textile Ecology has always been aware that Production Ecology needs to be addressed and so has developed the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000. This standard has been developed using a modular approach and offers manufacturers the ability to develop measurable and controllable "environmentally friendly " production procedures via an auditing process.

In the case of textiles, Disposal Ecology is not considered to pose significant problems regarding waste disposal. A large proportion of discarded textile products are either re-used, recycled or disposed of using approved methods, with only a small proportion being treated as household waste. Additionally, textile products conforming to the Oeko-Tex 100 standard do not pose any environmental threat when treated as household waste.