The beginning of Öko-Tex

In the late eighties, the Austrian Textile Research Institute ÖTI (Österreichische Textil-Forschungsinstitut) in Vienna, developed a testing scheme for textiles relating to harmful substances, the "ÖTN 100". The Institute tested textiles, clothing and floor coverings to the testing criteria involved. By 1991, ten companies were already certified to this human ecological test system.

Building on this wealth of knowledge and joining forces with a similar scheme; "Öko-Check", developed by the German textile institute; " Forschungsinstitut Hohenstein", the "Internationale Gemeinschaft für Forschung and Prufung auf dem Gebiet der Textilökologie"; or "OekoTex"; was developed in 1992.

The first task for the International Association for Research and Testing in the Field of Textile Ecology was the elaboration of the "Öko-Tex Standard 100", to enable the testing of textiles and clothing for their human ecology properties.

This standard contains analytical tests for specified harmful substances and gives limiting values based on scientific considerations. A manufacturer whose product meets the requirements set by the standard is licensed to use the registered mark or label "Tested for Harmful Substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100" on his product.

At the beginning of 1993, further renowned textile institutes joined the International Association as members. All members tested textile products to the same Oeko-Tex standard 100 methods and accordingly used the registered label to certify these products - "Confidence in Textiles. Tested for Harmful Substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100."

In 1995, the first edition of the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 was issued. Here the requirements for environmentally friendly production were outlined. Manufacturing sites fulfilling a strict set of limiting value criteria, addressing areas such as banned chemicals and harmful manufacturing processes were licenced to carry the label; "Umweltfreundliche Betriebsstätte" (lit. Environmentally Friendly Manufacturing Site) and were able to then demonstrate an environmental management system. First organisations were subsequently audited in a pilot project.

In 1999, the label "Oeko-Tex Standard 100 plus" was awarded for the first time. This related to a finished product, which fulfilled the requirements of the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and was also produced only on sites carrying the Oeko-Tex Standard 1000 licence.